Forest Society of Maine

Your land trust for Maine's North Woods.
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Ferns & Forests: Family Connections to the Maine Woods

November 28, 2020 By Annie

Based on an interview with longtime FSM supporter Craig Mathews
May 2020

As a young boy roaming the thick forests, damp fields, and shaded streams and gullies around his family’s farm in northern Maine, Craig Mathews discovered that oak ferns grow where it’s wet, while hayscented ferns are found in meadows. He scoured the woods with a shovel and pail to collect specimens for his fern garden, which held more than 20 species. He felt at home in the woods. He still does.

Mathews Farm has been in Craig’s family for nearly 200 years. In 1825—only three years after Monson was founded and only five years after Maine became a state—Jonathan “Captain” Mathews purchased land a few miles outside of town and built a house. Jonathan quickly learned that his land was poor for farming, so to support his family he worked log drives on the Kennebec River and Moosehead Lake. Craig was always told that Mathews Cove on Moosehead Lake was named for his great-great-great grandfather. The reason was never clear:  did he do something heroic there, or did he just fall in?

Several books were written at Mathews Farm. Craig Mathews’ grandfather, Shailer Mathews, was a prolific author and liberal Christian theologian. Shailer graduated from Colby with offers to teach French history or to play professional baseball; in those days the money was more reliable in teaching. Eventually, he chose to attend divinity school. He became dean of the newly formed Divinity School of the University of Chicago but traveled each year to Monson to spend his summers writing in a converted pigpen. Craig’s father, a law professor, wrote casebooks in the converted pigpen; he and Craig each wrote law review articles there.

The Mathews men weren’t the only ones who enjoyed the farm. The Mathews women were active and essential participants in all aspects of farm life. In earlier days, they rode horses, drove carriages, and helped bring in the hay. They hiked in the woods, climbed mountains, and were just as involved in events in the town of Monson. The farm’s story is equally theirs.

Growing up, Craig and his parents made the trip to Maine from Columbus, Ohio, every summer—except for three years when there was gas rationing due to WWII. He remembers fishing—just once—with his grandfather, Shailer, in a row boat on Monson Pond. It was a broiling midsummer day, the sun high overhead in a cloudless sky. Craig’s grandfather gave him a single worm to put on the end of his line. Young Craig waited for hours, sweating, but he never got so much as a nibble. Meanwhile, his grandfather used a casting rod to keep landing fish. That day was enough to convince Craig that fishing was not for him.

Instead, he hiked all the local mountains. His first ascent, at age three, was Mt. Kineo on Moosehead Lake, although he had to be carried home. Craig’s father encouraged his son to develop his outdoor and navigational skills, which later helped Craig advance to infantry officer school, then to the elite Army Rangers, and then to the Tenth Mountain Training Command after he was drafted into the military in 1954. Craig later went on to become an environmental lawyer (now retired) and a founder of the Environmental Law Institute, which is completing its 51st year of conducting environmental programs worldwide. He is grateful to have been immersed in nature from a young age. Appreciation for nature, he feels, is essential to learn young. To him, the family farm feels more like home than his “real” home in Washington, DC where there is less opportunity to spend quality time in the outdoors.

Two centuries of Mathews family memories are written in one place. To date, this history spans six generations, with three more close behind. That’s why the family has chosen to create a family trust to maintain the farm in perpetuity. Beneficiaries of the trust include the members of both Craig’s family and his wife, Ruth’s.

The family also chose to work with the Forest Society of Maine to place a working forest conservation easement, completed in 2003, on more than 400 acres of forests that surround their beloved farm. The family currently plans to extend the easement to include additional acreage—so that future generations can hike, explore, and search for ferns.

Filed Under: Blog Tagged With: Monson

Capturing the Grafton Landscape

October 22, 2020 By Annie

Article originally published in the 2020 fall edition of Forest View, FSM’s biannual newsletter.
Sunrise over the Swift Cambridge River looking east over Popple Dam Rd in Grafton Township, Maine. Photo by Jerry Monkman, EcoPhotography.
Sunrise over the Swift Cambridge River looking east over Popple Dam Rd in Grafton Township, Maine. Photo by Jerry Monkman, EcoPhotography.

Sometimes the best way to depict the essence of a place is not with words but with images. That is why photographer Jerry Monkman can be found waiting on a mountain summit before dawn with multiple cameras, ready to catch the first glow of light that seeps over the horizon, or on the shore of a tree-lined pond as evening light softens and fades. Dawn and dusk are excellent times to photograph, Jerry says, because this is when the landscape is the most dramatic and colorful. As a conservation photographer that specializes in scenic landscapes, his images grace the publications and websites of many conservation organizations and help to tell the stories of untrammeled places across Maine and New England.

This summer, the Forest Society of Maine (FSM) commissioned Jerry to showcase the beauty of the 21,300-acre Grafton Forest project which FSM is working to conserve. Jerry says that as he roamed the Grafton Forest lands he heard coyotes yip and howl in the distance and noted that there was moose sign everywhere. He describes York Pond as, “small and beautiful, idyllic and quiet, populated by beaver and ducks.”

With his photos, Jerry hopes to inspire people to care about natural and forested landscapes. At Grafton Forest, he spent hours driving dirt roads and hiking side trails, scouting the exact location from which to take the above shot. His images help us understand, even if we have never been there, what it feels like to watch the sun rise over the Mahoosuc mountains while shreds of mist float above the Swift Cambridge River. He’s spent more than 30 years looking through the lens of a camera, in all kinds of weather and locations. Being in remote places, like the rugged forests of western Maine, can be stressful—but it can also be meditative, and Jerry can’t imagine doing anything else.

“It’s my way of showing passion for wild places and open spaces,” he says. Now having hiked the ridgelines around Grafton Forest, Jerry can see that FSM’s project is an important one, “because conserving the lower slopes of one of the famed sections of the Appalachian Trail will also conserve the views from those peaks.”

Featured images from Grafton Township

View of Mt Washington from Grafton Notch, ME.
View of Mt. Washington from Grafton Township.
View of sun above western Maine mountains facing toward Success Pond.
Looking toward Success Pond.
Aerial view of York Pond in Grafton Township, Maine and the surrounding forest.
Aerial view of York Pond in Grafton Township and the surrounding forest.
Aerial view of the Swift Cambridge River in Grafton Township, Maine.
Aerial view of the Swift Cambridge River in Grafton Township.

 

Looking across York Pond in Grafton Township, Maine.
Looking across York Pond in Grafton Township.
To see more photos by EcoPhotography or learn more about Jerry’s work visit: ecophotography.com

Filed Under: Blog, Featured, News

Want the Trail to Yourself? Try Exploring Easements

August 18, 2020 By Erica

Summer 2020 will be anything but ordinary. With some indoor activities restricted or closed, many landowners and managers across Maine are reporting a higher-than-average number of visitors to their hiking trails, parks, and preserves. Fortunately, the Moosehead Lake region has an abundance of beautiful land, waters, and trails for residents and visitors to spread out on.

The Forest Society of Maine (FSM) holds conservation easements all around Moosehead Lake, including the 359,000-acre Moosehead Region Conservation Easement (MRCE). Multiple new trails have been constructed on the MRCE since 2015, which are managed by the state of Maine. For a challenging hike with outstanding views, the new Eagle Rock Trail is an excellent alternative to the uber-popular Big Moose. At 7.4 miles (round-trip), Eagle Rock makes for a full and satisfying day, and the parking lot is never full. For a shorter day, check out the Number 4 Mountain Trail (3.4 miles round-trip), east of Moosehead Lake.

North of the lake, the Big Spencer Mountain Trail is a relatively short but steep ascent to one the region’s tallest peaks (elevation 3,230’; 4 miles round-trip). You don’t even have to get to the top to earn exceptional views: Lobster and Chesuncook lakes and Baxter State Park are visible from a small clearing just one mile from the trail head (a great picnic location). Even on a perfect summer day, it is rare to pass more than one or two other hikers on Big Spencer—perhaps because the drive is long and remote. Remember to always turn your headlights on when travelling private roads, and be sure to pull over to let logging trucks pass. Big Spencer is managed as a Maine State Ecological Reserve, and is conserved by an FSM-held easement.

All three of the above hikes, including trail maps and driving directions, can be found on MaineTrailFinder.com. The local hiking and volunteer group Moosehead Trails will also be hosting socially distant trips to Big Spencer and to the Blue Ridge Trail system in the MRCE, this summer and fall. More information can be found at Facebook.com/MooseheadTrails/.

When exploring easements, please play it safe. Emergency calls to the backcountry puts a burden on local health organizations and emergency responders. Stay within your limits, and always pack plenty of food, water, and a warm non-cotton layer, even if you are only doing a short hike. To everyone enjoying the spectacular woods and waters of the Moosehead Lake region, this summer, the Forest Society of Maine wishes you happy—and healthy—trails!

 

Originally published in the Piscataquis Observer (June 29, 2020) and Moosehead Matters (July 3, 2020).

Filed Under: Blog Tagged With: Moosehead Region

American History in Coburn Gore

June 26, 2020 By Annie

Benedict Arnold and his men would have encountered streams like this one, and the dense forest behind it, while trekking through Coburn Gore.

The Forest Society of Maine has a unique opportunity to conserve land in western Maine that is not only scenic and ecologically valuable, but is also known for being an American Battlefield of the Revolution. Coburn Gore Forest, bordered on three sides by Quebec, is the site of the last leg of the journey of the Benedict Arnold Expedition where he led more than 1,000 men from the Kennebec and Dead Rivers into Quebec to attack the Province in 1775. His attack ultimately ended in defeat. Painstakingly blazing their way through dense wilderness, the route, trail, or march as it’s known, was rife with suffering and hardship. Arnold lost one-third of his men on the journey and finally had to abandon the heavy, cumbersome bateaux (large wooden boats) used to travel up river from the coast.

The remoteness and terrain of the Chain of Ponds area around Coburn Gore has helped to preserve the archaeological sites along this historic route. As recently as 2017, the Maine Historic Preservation Commission, along with the Arnold Expedition Historical Society (AEHS), identified and assessed several more significant sites along the trail route. The Arnold Trail to Quebec was listed in the National Register of Historic Places in 1969. The exact trail location is not yet known but according to Kenny Wing of the AEHS, “every year we are narrowing down the trail more and more based on archaeological information.” FSM is working with a family landowner to establish a working forest conservation easement on 8,300 acres of Coburn Gore. This easement will not only prohibit residential and commercial development, but will forever protect the lands supporting the historic Arnold Trail.

Filed Under: Blog, Featured Tagged With: Coburn Gore

Umbagog National Wildlife Refuge

June 25, 2020 By Annie

This story first appeared in the 2020 spring edition of Forest View, FSM’s biannual newsletter. 

In the summer green herons can be found in parts of Maine and New Hampshire. Photo by Pam Wells.

The Forest Society of Maine is working with a forestland owner to conserve 21,300 acres in the Grafton region. The Grafton Forest project is supported by many partners in the region:  local land trusts, ATV and snowmobile clubs, a local search and rescue group, the Appalachian Mountain Club, Appalachian Trail Conservancy, Grafton Notch State Park, Maine Bureau of Parks and Lands, and Umbagog National Wildlife Refuge (NWR). The latter partnership is especially exciting as the Grafton Forest project area contains lands of importance to the NWR—in particular the area encompassing the headwaters of the Swift Cambridge River which eventually flows north into Lake Umbagog.

Umbagog NWR was established in 1992 with the primary purpose of protecting wetlands, wetland-associated wildlife, and migratory birds. Umbagog Lake has an extensive complex of wetlands like Harper’s Meadow, a designated Floating Island National Natural Landmark, that are highly utilized by waterfowl. The refuge and the area around it support more than 166 wildlife species of elevated conservation concern in national, regional, and state plans.

The refuge is regionally important for a diversity of species, including Canada lynx. White-tailed deer rely on the deer wintering areas. The complex wetlands are home to common loons and wood turtles. Loons are listed as threatened in New Hampshire and wood turtles are a species of special concern in Maine. Additionally, a native brook trout population relies on the shallow Umbagog Lake and Magalloway River as crucial winter habitat.

Umbagog NWR is primarily known for its exceptional wetland values and the upland forests around it play a significant role in maintaining good habitat quality. Being able to conserve land near existing conservation lands, like the NWR, is another reason FSM found this conservation opportunity so worthwhile. Through the Grafton Forest project, FSM will be able to ensure that the future of the surrounding forest and headwaters of the Swift Cambridge River will be conserved in perpetuity under a working forest conservation easement.

Filed Under: Blog, Featured Tagged With: Grafton

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Registered Maine Guide Talks Brook Trout

Mark your calendars! On October 29th, FSM will be partnering with Bangor Public Library to host a talk on … [Read More...]

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